Djemaa el Fna, the main square, is another world altogether. Here you will find snake charmers, storytellers who attract an enormous and mesmerized crowd, false teeth and ostrich egg vendors, performing monkeys and ladies who insist on painting henna patterns on your hands and ankles. This is the hub of all activity, where everyone meets, eats and watches the world go by. There is Chegrouni, a cheap and dependably good restaurant with a panoramic roof terrace, Le Prince, air-conditioned and crammed with divine cakes and pastries, the Marakchi, a rather more expensive restaurant with a glamorous view of the square and the Koutoubia twinkling by night. Banks, chemists, post offices – and some of the best food, sitting outside in the square itself at night eating fresh, delicious kebabs, tajines and salads by the light of gaslamps.